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| | | An absolutely banging 2012 vintage Champagne from one of our favorite houses…and you need to know about it. Lenoble has actually been around since 1920. This multigenerational property has quietly gone about their business in their Grand Cru hometown of Chouilly, located at the northern tip of the Cote des Blancs. It’s a tiny property by Champagne standards, relying heavily upon their own estate-grown, organically farmed Grand Cru vineyards for the large majority of their production. Lenoble is, as of 2023, now owned by Ségolène Frère-Gallienne. Her father Albert Frère and Bernard Arnault of LVMH jointly purchased Chateau Cheval Blanc in 1998. She fell in love with Lenoble’s champagnes and will continue the house’s legacy as an innovative, independent, family-owned producer.
Their non-vintage wines are outstanding, but, when we got the chance to taste and talk up one of their legendary vintage wines, especially from the great 2012 harvest, it was no-brainer. But, like many great vintage Champagnes, this wine actually took some time to come around. We had first tasted this cuvee maybe two years ago, and the wine still felt powerful, explosive, yet reserved, coiled if you will. We knew its time would come, but when?
Good news, our most recent tasting of this cuvee a few months back ago gave us today’s masterful a-ha moment. This wine made us weak in the knees, what a crowning achievement for this property…
The Lenoble Champagne Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Extra Brut 2012 is produced from 100% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Chouilly. The base wine was aged in both tanks and 228-litre barrels before the cuvee aged for over 10 years on lees in their historic cellars prior to disgorgement. In fact, this wine is probably more like 12-13 years aging as this disgorgement is ‘fresh’ though there is no disgorgement date on the bottle.
The nose first reveals a lovely toasty undertone, before delicate hints of honey and candied fruit, notably apricot, round out its aromatic complexity. Gradually, subtle accents of fresh hazelnuts emerge, adding extra depth and elegance to the whole. On the palate, this wine is just now starting to emerge from it slumber, showing the richer profile of Chardonnay form this northerly village in the Cote des Blancs while still retaining intense minerality, focus, precision and structure. The dosage in this vintage is properly metered at 3 g/l and the wine is in pinpoint balance. It’s just, like, wow. |
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