|
| "François Mitjavile, Saint-Émilion's philosophically minded gentleman farmer, continues to produce some of Bordeaux's most singular and characterful wines ..."
William Kelley, Wine Advocate |
| | | | "Pruned in cordon and trained almost impossibly low to the ground, Mitjaville's Merlot and Cabernet Franc fruit is harvested as late as possible, in pursuit of what he describes as the 'sumptuous degradation' of its tannins. Vinification is in some respects rather old fashioned, with fermentations and élevage in new barrels (from Tonnellerie Radoux) in a cellar that fluctuates in temperature following the seasons .... His conviction is that, as he puts it, 'the most original wines are paradoxically also the most traditional.'
Above all, Mitjavile has a horror of primary, monolithic wines, instead admiring aromatic complexity and textural sensuality; and Tertre Roteboeuf exemplifies those priorities with its rich aromas uniting ultra-ripe but invariably surprisingly vibrant fruit tones with a rich patina of secondary and tertiary nuances."William Kelley, Wine Advocate |
| | "Roc de Cambes is an exciting part of the François Mitjavile portfolio, which also includes the legendary Tertre Rôtebouef. This Côtes de Bourg property benefits from having the same unique vision as its stablemate ....
Bourg consists of three successive banks of south-oriented hills that rise from the banks of the Gironde River. The first bank is called 'Les Croûtes' and is considered the highest-quality terroir in the region. The heat here is tempered by the regulatory effect of the river, which shields the vineyards from extremes of temperature and encourages even ripening. This is where Roc de Cambes’ 12 hectares lie. 30+-year-old vines are planted to 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon on a south-facing amphitheater of chalky clay soil – a terroir similar to Tetre Rôtebouef’s, which intrigued François. After hand harvest and primary fermentation in concrete, the wine is then matured in an average of 50% new oak barrels for 15-18 months.
Roc de Cambes also encompasses Domaine de Cambes, the part of the vineyard that lies immediately next to the estuary of the Gironde, which flows at the foot of the slope. Classified as Bordeaux, the Domaine de Cambes is often mistakenly viewed as the second wine of Roc des Cambes. It is, however, a separate vineyard, with more clay in its soil composition and less limestone. This soil remains cool, allowing for an extended growing season. The vineyard is planted to approximately 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec." |
| | | "François Mitjavile and his daughter, Nina, make some of the most original wines in Bordeaux.
The tiny, cramped cellar looks much more like something one might see in Burgundy rather than in Bordeaux. Some of the signatures here include the incredibly low-trained vines, late harvests, and long period of élevage in oak - but it is really the vision of the Mitjavile family that results in striking wines loaded with personality."
Antonio Galloni, Vinous |
| | | 95% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc |
| ‣ "I was pretty much blown away by the quality of the 2020 Domaine de L'Aurage, and this is one serious Castillon that readers should jump on if given the chance. Offering a brilliant nose of ripe currants, black cherry liqueur, sweet tobacco, and spicy oak, it hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless mouthfeel, and beautiful tannins. An absolutely stunning wine, as well as the finest wine I've tasted from this estate, it will evolve for 15 years or more."
95 Jeb Dunnuck |
| | | | | 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc |
| ‣ "The 2020 Domaine de Cambes is a gorgeous, luxuriously deep wine done in François Mitjavile's gently oxidative, concentrated style. Sumptuous black cherry, plum, chocolate, espresso and licorice all meld together. Pliant and supple, with generous fruit, Domaine de Cambes is so expressive today. Like many 2020s, it is a bit tight, but that should not be an issue in another few years' time. The purity of the flavors is compelling."
94 Antonio Galloni, Vinous |
| | | | | 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc |
| ‣ "Also from the team at Tertre Roteboeuf and based on 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, the 2019 Domaine de Cambes shows a more tight, focused style compared to the Roc de Cambes. Giving up opulent red, black, and blue fruit as well as subtle oak, plenty of minerality, notes of spice and violets, and a great, great finish, it might be the best of the trio (Domaine de l'Aurage, Roc de Cambes, and Domaine de Cambes)."
93-95 Jeb Dunnuck |
| | | | Typically approx. 80% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon
|
| ‣ "I have been a big believer in this Côtes de Bourg made by the obsessive/compulsive François Mitjavile, who is better known for his outstanding small Saint-Émilion estate, Tertre Roteboeuf .... In this recent tasting I was thrilled to see how well the wines showed. Both [1990 and 1989] are fully mature, yet capable of lasting another 7-8 years. With the price escalation for wines such as Tertre Roteboeuf, I suppose Roc de Cambes will now be known as the 'poor person's Roteboeuf.' The 1990 barely edged out the 1989. The deep ruby/garnet-colored 1990 offers a creamy, smoky, roasted nut, jammy, black-cherry-scented nose, followed by soft, round, supple flavors, outstanding concentration, and a low acid, plush finish. This delicious offering is proof that wines from lowly regarded appellations can be just as delicious as those that possess higher pedigrees and cost 5-6 times as much .... Readers who bought these wines early should be pleased that their $16-$18 investments now taste like wines costing $50-$100."
90 Robert M. Parker, Jr., Wine Advocate |
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